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Sleek and Greek

Demure restaurant scores with its pork kebabs
Posted by JerseyShoreNow.com on 09/21/2006
By Andrea Clurfeld

FOOD EDITOR
The poor guy behind the counter of My Little Fat
Greek Restaurant is so swamped, he's got to
place an emergency call to his wife and kids to
get there fast. "Now!" he practically hisses into
the phone.

Suddenly, everyone within a 10-mile radius of this
reconfigured shack on Route 9 in Freehold
Township is jonesing for Souvlaki.

Plus, the shack, the former home of JoJo's Ribs, is
quite pretty now, a sleek transformation from,
well, grungy takeout joint to a demure spot for
sit-down supper. There's still a line at the takeout
counter, but the handful of cloth-topped tables
that were a quarter full at 6:30 p.m. Are SRO at 7.
Wham! Slammed.

The aromas of grilling pork kebabs fill the room of
My Little Fat Greek Restaurant and the pile of
garlic-infused roasted lamb that's brought to the
table next to me also catches my olfactories. It's
taking forever to get my order in and to get
served, and the apologies runneth over; I am
hungry, but I'm willing to wait for something
different in an area fraught with more Italian and
Asian restaurants than should be allowed by law.

The others in the cozy, tidy dining room seem to
feel the same way, exchanging quizzical glances
and shrugs as time passes. But when my trio of
dips arrive, I'm mollified: The creamy, rich yogurt
dip called Tzatziki ($2.75) is mellow and lush,
while the sultry eggplant spread known as
Melitzanosalata ($5.95) is smoky, mildly garlicky
and totally lovely slapped on blistered grilled pita.
But it's the Taramosalata ($3.95) that wins my
heart, for this whipped-up blend of caviar and
olive oil is irresistible, a little luxury for humble
pita.

Meanwhile, the reinforcements called in to help
with the sudden dinner rush are slowing down.
Everyone's been served and fed and a battalion of
takeout orders have been filled and dispatched.
It's interesting, I think to myself, how folks flock to
something new and different. If you cook new
right, they will come.

Eat Out is a weekly look at casual-dining options
near and at the Shore. For critical reviews of
restaurants, check out the Dining Companion in
Sunday's Entertainment section.

MY LITTLE FAT GREEK RESTAURANT